Need some help finding the perfect travel gear for kids? Here are some of our favorite products. Everything on this list we own and love!
1. The Challenge: Strollers are the worse y’all. They are big and heavy. They are hard to lug around. Even when I fold them up, it’s like playing Tetris trying to make them fit in taxi trunks. We have to leave them outside when we go into small shops just hoping they will still be there when we come out. Yeah, I could get a cheap umbrella stroller. But my back will be aching after a day of leaning over pushing that small thing all day. And I’ll have to carry all of my bags on my back and shoulders, because there is no storage space. The lack of durability means we’ll be getting a new one often, and we better have a really nice sidewalk to roll on or else we are screwed. Forget rolling on cobblestone streets or dirt paths. If we come across stairs, GAME OVER.☠
The Solution: Say hello to the perfect travel stroller, The Zoe Traveler!
Why we love it: This stroller is truly amazing! It has been able to roll on any surface we have tried. Cobblestone in the old towns of Europe? ✔Check! Tiny dusty alleys in Morocco’s medinas? ✔Check! The horrible uneven sidewalks in my neighborhood? ✔Check! It is so lightweight that I can carry it down stairs with my child in it easily. It has some storage space to help carry bags. Plus, I can drape my camera on the handles keeping it safe in front of me and freeing up my shoulders from that aching pain. It lays back too, allowing Little E to nap on the go. Side note from Hubby: It is tall enough for a 6’3″ dude to push comfortably without leaning forward.
Our favorite feature: The best feature is that it packs up small enough to fit in a overhead compartment of a plane. We still always gate check it to save our overhead space. But the fact that it gets this small allows us to store it under tables in tiny cafes, stuff it in a locker at a train station, or fit it in the backseat of a taxi.
Drawbacks: If you are travelling with an infant, it doesn’t hold a carseat/carrier well. At this stage, I prefer to leave the stroller at home completely and wear my baby instead. Also, it needs cup-holders. 🤦♀️
2. The Challenge: My instinct is to take my wrap. It’s easy to pack, comfortable to wear all day, and light in the heat. But… it’s too tight for my sweaty husband to wear, it takes way too long to tie and secure, and my babies don’t always like how constrained they feel.
The Solution: Bring a more versatile carrier instead like the LÍLLÉbaby Complete All Seasons Baby Carrier
Why we love it: The Lillebaby is more comfortable for all day wear. I was able to use it until Little E was around 2 years old. It gave him the freedom to move around as he got older. I can wear it so many different ways! It’s very quick to put on and take off. And halleluiah 🙌, the hubby loves the Lillebaby. So, we can share the baby carrying responsibility.
Our favorite feature: It has handy dandy breathable pockets that you can unzip. I worry less about overheating for me and my little ones when we are out on a hot day. And it gets the sweaty husband thumbs up 👍.
Drawbacks: I absolutely hate how hard this thing is to store! It just doesn’t fold up well at all.
3. The Challenge: We avoid bringing a carseat at all cost when we can. Renting a car with a carseat normally solves the problem. But sometimes, we just can’t avoid it. Carrying a carseat through the airport is a horrible stress adder to the beginning of what should be a fun vacation, but we don’t want to risk the airline losing our carseat if we check it.
The Solution: Bring an airport carseat bag
Why we love it: There are a ton to choose from on Amazon, and I don’t really have a preference on which is the best. This bag helps hubby carry our carseat on his back or shoulder and keeps it packed up cleanly for checking at the gate (which is free!).
Our favorite feature: We can throw that clunky baby carrier in there too, making one less thing we have to worry about on the plane! Or if we are feeling sneaky, we can buckle in a packing cube or two and create extra free space in our carry-ons.
Drawbacks: It doesn’t make a normal carseat any less small. The carseat is still annoying to have to bring.
4. The Challenge: Did I mention how much a hate travelling with a carseat yet? 🙄
The Solution: Ride Safer Travel Vest
Why we love it: This harness completely and safely replaces the need for a carseat! It’s legal here in the states. We use it everywhere, on planes, in taxis, on buses…
Our favorite feature: It’s super easy to pack. It fits in our diaper bag. We can throw it in the Zoe’s storage basket and fold up the stroller with the harness!
Drawbacks: There are two big ones. First, the child needs to be 30 lbs before this is a safe option. Second, when we are planning on being in the car for a long time, it’s not the most comfortable option for a child. A normal carseat is better for sleeping in.
Visit their website for more information including some great info on safety: https://saferide4kids.com/
5. The Challenge: Many countries don’t have reliable safe high chairs at restaurants (if any at all). I’m often stuck holding my baby on my lap while I try to eat.
The Solution: A travel high chair such as, My Little Seat
Why we love it: This travel high chair is super portable, packing into a small bag that fits easily in our diaper bag. It fits just about any chair we have tried it on.
Our favorite feature: It’s really easy to wash! Just throw it in the washing machine or wash it in the hotel sink.
Drawbacks: It doesn’t bring our children up to table height.
7. The Challenge: My son is quick to run the battery down on my phone watching videos and playing games.
The Solution: Get him his own Fire Kids Edition Tablet.
Why we love it: The Fire Kids Edition is pretty much the same tablet as the regular Fire but with a nice durable cover. It comes equipped with the FreeTime app and a one year subscription. Little E was able to download anything he wanted within his age group on this app without our help. It took him all of about one day to find his favorite shows on Kids Youtube BY HIMSELF! This pairs nicely with a set of kid friendly headphones.
Our favorite feature: The durable cover is worth its weight in gold. Ethan actually threw this thing INTO A RIVER, and it still worked!
Drawbacks: I had to get comfortable with judgmental stares from strangers that don’t understand why I would allow my child to play with a tablet at the dinner table. 🤷♀️
8. The Challenge:Our second baby needed white noise to sleep early on. I have a white noise app that I love on my phone, but I can’t use my phone and the app at the same time.
The Solution: Replace your phone app with the The Yogasleep Hushh Portable White Noise Machine
Why we love it: This white noise machine is small and simple. It gets the job done and takes up little space.
Our favorite feature: I can clip it to anything, and it has a child safe lock.
9. The Challenge: I don’t want to miss out on nighttime events, because it’s too loud for baby. If there are fireworks or loud music, the sound could damage my little ones ears.
The Solution: Bring noise protecting ear muffs
Why we love it: I don’t feel guilty being the mom in the concert stands at 9:00 PM anymore. My baby is safely on my chest sleeping soundly while I enjoy the event, fireworks and all.
Our favorite feature: These fold up really really small, saving that precious space!
Drawbacks: As Little E got bigger, he got more annoyed with wearing these.
All too often, I hear new parents talk about how much they miss taking vacations. When I ask, “What’s stopping you?”, the answer is always around the lines of “It’s too hard to travel with kids”,”It’s too expensive to travel with kids”, “I honestly don’t know how you do it…”
Well, I’m a strong believer that having a baby doesn’t mean you have to give up your adventurous side. Yes, it can be challenging, but the reward of exploring together as a family makes it all worth it. I’m here to help you with the planning so you can tackle that fear and enjoy the ride! Here are ten tips to get you started:
10. Research your gear
Probably the first challenge of travelling with a baby is figuring out which gear to take and which gear to leave. There is just so much of it! First, make a list of what is absolutely necessary for your child to have. These are the things that you can’t live a day without. I focus on safety and mobility. Strollers, car seats, and baby carriers… The gear you will need will be different at different stages of life for your little one. Once you have your list, start your research. We always look for products that are lightweight and easy to carry or pack. Follow this post to see more recommendations of products we love!
9. Pack Light
This tip will go against every instinct you have. But trust me, by reducing what you have to keep up with, you will be reducing stress! We have been successful multiple times in packing only carry ons for our international adventures. I explain how here. Ultimately, you have to get comfortable with not being fully prepared for every single scenario. Think ahead about what you will wear each day. Plan on washing cloths on the go. It’s pretty easy to go through multiple outfits a day with a baby, but onesies are pretty easy to wash in the sink!
8. Think about food and milk
This planning step is very dependent on each and every child. We are very lucky that Little E isn’t picky. He has been eating whatever we eat since starting solids. We have found that baby food is pretty easy to find in most all countries. However, it might be hard to tell what the ingredients contain. We like to bring baby food pouches for travelling. They are easy to store and less messy. Bring a pack of cheap baby spoons, and you are good to go.
If you are breastfeeding, life will be pretty easy. I always bring a hand pump to use for long public transport rides so I wont have to take my little one out the car-seat. If you are using formula, put it in plastic baggies to make it easier to store. Remember, you are allowed to carry on all baby food, formula, and breastmilk on the plane regardless of the amount! Just be prepared to pull it out for inspection.
If you have a toddler, then snacks are a must! I always make sure to have a snack bag in our day pack. You can find snacks at just about any supermarket you go to. Don’t feel like you have to pack enough snacks for the entire trip.
7. Buy diapers there
You also don’t have to pack enough diapers for the entire trip! I promise! Take enough to get you through the airport and maybe one extra day. I have been able to find diapers everywhere. Even from street vendors in Morocco! Pro tip: It will help to know how much your child weighs in kilograms.
6. Know the essentials
What are the things you can’t buy at any supermarket? This may be dependent on where you are going. The things I like to make sure I have on hand always are baby sunscreen, a child thermometer, children’s Tylenol, baby bug spray, and baby soap. It can be difficult to tell what you are buying when it’s in another language. So, if your child has any skin sensitivities you will want your own products on hand. Just put them in small travel bottles to save space and allow you to carry onto the flight.
5. Don’t forget the entertainment
I never travel with a lot of toys. A couple of your child’s favorite toys and few easy travel toys are all you need. Sticker books, a small bag of plastic animals, and a couple small books have been enough for us. My rule of thumb is that all snacks and toys have to fit into my child’s carry-on backpack (toddler size). This includes his tablet and headphones.
4. Prepare sleeping arrangements ahead
I always pay close attention to amenities when booking hotels. Not all hotels will offer roll away cribs. For us, this is a must. However, if you are going somewhere that you know this isn’t an option… add it to your gear list! Don’t waste time going back to the hotel for naps, get a stroller that leans back and let the naps happen on the go!
3. Understand the local culture
We haven’t been to a country yet that hasn’t been extremely baby friendly. Ask questions to people that you talk to on your trip about how the locals feel about children. Is it OK to breastfeed in public? Is it acceptable to bring babies to nice restaurants? In certain countries, you may be surprised at just how friendly the locals can be. In Argentina, I had a local come pick my baby up and carry him off to show her friends! In Morocco, we were surprised to find out that it was custom for men to kiss children on the head to show affection. And in Lithuania, we saw babies in carriages sitting in alleys by themselves soaking up the sunlight while their parents watched from somewhere out of our sight.
2. Every baby is different
I can’t stress this enough. What has worked for us, may not work for you. You know your child! So, if something I say doesn’t seem right to you, try it your way!
1. Be Flexible and have Patience
No matter which tips work and don’t work for you, you will always need to remember to have patience and to be flexible. Understand that there may be sacrifices you will have to make. I missed out on the Lucha Libre match in Mexico City, because someone had to stay in the hotel with the baby. At the same time, our flexibility has allowed us to get out and see things on the go. Little E has taking plenty of naps in the stroller while we hang out in museums. We have stayed up much later then normal bedtime in order to go to restaurants and have nice dinners. A lot of times, our routine is already messed up by jet lag anyways. So let loose, and be prepared to change plans as needed. You may miss out on a few things, but the bonding you are creating with your family is worth so much more.
Extra tip!
Capture the good, the bad, and the ugly! Yeah I know, Our boys aren’t going to remember these trips. But I will always have these moments captured by my camera to share with them. These are memories that I believe they will treasure forever!
It was too dark to really see what we had in store for us the night we drove into Riga. Still, we knew we were in for something special. We splurged on a fancy hotel, thanks to Hotels.com for a free night, and the moment we walked in we were treated like royalty. We didn’t want to waste any of the time we had in this city. So, we headed out immediately to try one of the city’s most innovative restaurants, 3 Pavāru.
Riga is actually well known for its upcoming food scene, and this restaurant did not disappoint that expectation! The unique menu made us feel like we were fancy food critics with items like ostrich tartar and veal cheeks. And the staff was phenomenal! We always worry a little about how the staff will react to us bringing a toddler into a fancy place, but our waitress was a pro. She made a special menu for E and even brought him a surprise dessert!
The next morning, we finally saw what my heart had been longing for, more of the beautiful Baltic architecture. Riga’s most famous style of architecture is the 20th century Art Nouveau. Riga is the Art Nouveau Capital of the World after all. Many of the buildings in the old town are now recognized as World Heritage sites.
Also from the 20th century and a UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Riga Central Market, Europe’s largest market housed inside multiple old German hangars. I can’t resist a good food market. So, we headed there for lunch and wandered from hanger to hanger taking in the local culture.
As usual, we spent countless hours just wandering the streets, and as usual, I continuously got left behind with my eyes behind my camera lens snapping away.
So this time, I made a change! I hired a local photographer to take our very first professional family photos prior to our new addition coming. We hired Dmitry from Localgraphers.com, highly recommended!
We ended our wonderful Baltic adventure meeting up with some Houston friends who now call Riga their home. As we listened to their tales of adjusting to a completely new culture, we quickly became envious.
One day maybe we will pick up our family and move somewhere new and fresh. But today we sit in our beautiful Houston home looking at these photos and loving our life that is based on a strong foundation and yet gypsy at heart.
For our last stop in Lithuania, we had to see the World Heritage site called the Hill of Crosses.
It is exactly as it sounds, a small hill covered in crosses. All kinds of crosses… from gigantic wooden crucifixes to tiny rosaries. An estimate puts the number of crosses around ten thousand. Pilgrimages from all over the world come to this location to place their crosses. We saw soldiers placing crosses for fallen comrades, families placing crosses for lost loved ones, and priests walking the perimeter saying prayers at the Stations of the Cross.
The hill has become a symbolism of the strength of Christianity within Lithuania. It has been knocked down multiple times, but continues to rise back up.
I could have walked the grounds for hours looking at all the little details, but it was freezing! The wind chill was cutting through to our bones. So, we soaked in the last bit of Lithuania before heading back into Latvia. The perseverance of this beautiful country will stay with us forever.
Our trip to Lithuania wouldn’t have seemed right without seeing at least one beautiful castle. And luckily we spotted this gem on the map leaving Villinus. Trakai Island Castle is positioned safely inside a large lake, with a drawbridge and everything y’all! It was built in the 14th century and now houses a museum with relics from that time.
I’m sure this castle is absolutely gorgeous during the springtime, but it’s hard to imagine it looking anymore beautiful then it did on that frozen lake the day we visited.
With a full dose of beautiful castle, we moved on and made a short stop in Kaunas.
I was excited to stop in Kaunas, because I was reading a book about the Baltics in WWII that was set there. We found ourselves wanting to find out more about the dark history of the region. The Ninth Fort was the perfect museum for us to dive into that past. We were filled with emotion as we walked our way through the exhibits, placed our feet in the same grounds where so many people were murdered, and finally stood before the memorial filling us with hope for the future. The large memorial stood fierce before us, exceeding our expectations.
We were reminded once again that humanity is not always kind. As we hugged Little E and the unborn baby in my belly, we knew the importance of understanding the past to prevent re-occurrence in the future.
Our short spontaneous trip to the Baltics required us to choose between Estonia and Lithuania. After flying into Latvia, we had to decide, should we go North, or should we go South? With a flip of a coin (and the hopes that going south would be slightly warmer in the late Winter…), we chose Lithuania. And after a short drive through the pretty countryside, we found our way to Villinus, a beautiful oldtown city with a rich history of persistence and strength.
The Baltics suffered greatly during World War II. This was our first experience learning the history of the horrible reign of Stalin. As we walked around the city with a wonderful tour guide, we started to feel the pain the city has gone through. Once again, we were hit with a dose of harsh reality that our world’s history isn’t that beautiful.
But this city has a way of shining through that harsh reality with a strong sense of pride, beauty, and humor. Fun, goofy, hidden treasures could be found all over the streets in Old Town.
And nothing encompasses the city’s culture more than the small country inside the city, The Republic of Uzupis. That’s right, another country. With its own constitution, government, and even passport stamp!
Ok, so it is not really a country. The Republic of Uzupis is the art district of Villinus that pretends to be its own country, kind of like the city’s little inside joke. In fact, it started as an April Fool’s Day joke! However, the art here is really nothing to joke about. Before we crossed the border into this fictional country, we were greeted with some rules, the most important one being to smile at all times. We visited the local post office and got a passport stamp on a postcard (since it is actually against the real law to stamp your real passport with a fake country stamp). Then we stopped to read the constitution written on a wall in multiple different languages. Our tour guide filled us in on all the weird traditions including the election process for random ministries. Her friend was elected the Minister of Frisbee!
Our decision to drive South through Lithuania proved to be a good call. The country captured our hearts with its story of strength to endure a horrific past while embracing its eclectic future.
Why did we choose the Baltics? To this day, I can’t really answer that. It was perhaps one of the most spontaneous trips we have taken. One day while scrolling through my endless email of spam promotions, a deal from Scott’s Cheap Flights caught my eye for tickets to the Baltics for $500. After a few back and forth texts with Jason, we had tickets to Riga for that upcoming March. And that’s really as much to that story as there is, a little glimpse into the decision making process of the Hills family.
We quickly learned that booking on a whim has its regrets. We chose a horrible time of the year to go, right at the end of winter but still too cold to be spring. And we quickly realized, we know nothing about these little countries nestled up so close to Russia. What would we see? Would it be worth the nightmare of three flights to get there? Could my second trimester pregnant body handle it? Was this a horrible mistake? Knowing it was too late and our tickets were locked in, we packed our bags for cold weather and headed up north regardless. We were quickly reminded that no trip in this wondrous world is a waste of our time.
We landed in Riga on the day a snowstorm came in, just in time for Little E to see the countryside dusted with fresh beautiful snow. This was his first time to really experience snow, which is such a foreign phenomenon to our little Texan. Seeing his face as he stuck out his tongue to catch the tiny snowflakes was worth the trip alone.
We spent our first day driving around the Latvian countryside in awe of the snow kissed landscape. We stopped in Sigulda, Latvia’s adventure capital. We drove over the bridge famous for naked bungee jumping. Jason felt lucky it was out of season as he knew that he would have been coerced by me to join in on the fun. We found the Gutmanis Cave covered in carvings as old as the 17th century. We were the only people walking about the national park that day. But that didn’t stop one vendor from finding us and selling us some amazing delicious treats.
Eventually our drive took us to our first castle in Cesis, an 800 year old Medieval beauty. As we walked up the endless steep twirling steps, I started to realize this would be our last trip as a family of three. The next endless twirling steps we took, I’d have a new baby strapped to my chest. I felt my heart fill with joy.
We spent the night in a tiny cottage tucked away in the woods. We were the only guests. The owners were so happy to see us that they cooked us locally caught trout as their son played with Ethan in the dining area. The children couldn’t speak each other’s language but that didn’t stop them from becoming friends quickly. Time seemed to stand still in this little beautiful town. I could have stayed there much longer soaking in the cold air and enjoying the days with my beautiful family. Yet, in typical Hills fashion, we drove on to pack in much as possible.
I quickly noticed that my architecture loving heart was in for a treat as we drove with more clear weather the next day. Of course my eye caught the beautiful Russian Orthodox Church domes found throughout our trip. And we begin to read more about the sad history of Russian influence over these countries. We knew there would be a lot to learn about this history as we continued our journey.
We stumbled upon a beautiful Baroque 18th century palace seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Rundale Palace must be a tourist hot spot when the weather is nice. But on this cold winter day, we had the palace to ourselves roaming room to room in awe of the ornate interior design.
Once again, I found myself hit with a wave of love for this wandering family Jason and I have created. The little baby inside me kicked my belly as a reminder he was now part of that family. I whelped up with joy. For these experiences would mean nothing if I didn’t have these beautiful people to share them with.
During a quick stop in Casablanca, we met back up with our friends Jill and Adam. I really have no pictures to show of Casablanca as the only thing we did there was visit the famous bar, Rick’s Cafe, while citing lines from the movie “Casablanca”. There wasn’t much to stay for. So, with a “Here’s looking at you kid.”, we drove off to Marrakesh and met up with a local friend, Hicham.
Hicham was actually the identical twin brother of a co-worker of Jason’s. He was super excited to meet us and show us his city. He met us at our Riad quickly after we arrived. Just like in Fes, we were greeted by the Riad owner with extreme hospitality. There was tea, wine, and olives waiting for us. Ethan loved the courtyard that came fully equipped with a small pool and a pet turtle.
He actually loved it so much that he fell into the pool, nearly giving this mama a heart attack. We both quickly recovered from the drama though, and Hicham was ready to start our tour of the Medina.
For our first stop we really wanted some food. Hicham took us to the very popular Jemaa el-Fnaa square.
The square is famous for its tourist attractions of snake charmers, story tellers, dancers, and magicians. I was terrified of the snake charmers. So, I treaded carefully keeping my distance from the cobras as much as possible. The most interesting thing we actually saw was the juice stands. There were a dozen lined up in the square, all looking exactly the same. To get your attention, the juicers would yell at you to come try their specialty. If you started walking close to one, the others would start a playful banter, “No! No! Their juice is awful, come here instead!”. They were seriously all exactly the same, but the back and forth yelling made for good afternoon entertainment. When we finally chose a stand, the juicers were so happy that they let the guys come up into the stand for a fun photo op.
Once we felt nice and refreshed from our delicious juice, Hicham walked us a traditional Moroccan restaurant for lunch. I had been wanting to try traditional tagine. It did not disappoint. Jill noticed one spice she didn’t like at all. Hicham promised to take us a spice shop in the medina to try to identify the name. Then she would know exactly what to stay clear of in the future.
After lunch, we got the full tour of the Medina. Just like in Fes, we saw the multiple different disciplines in the Medina: metal, wood, weaving, dying… it was once again quite overwhelming. However, compared to Fes, this medina was much more spacious and yet packed with tourists. Therefore, everything looked a little newer, a little brighter, and a little more progressive.
We also visited the Ben Youssef Madrasa, an old Islamic college known for the beautiful interior design which boasts a multi-sensory experience.
Hicham owns his very own antique shop inside the Medina. It was an extremely impressive shop, not filled with the typical tourist doodads. Instead, we were surrounded by extremely old pieces of ceramics and tea pots. Hicham gave each of us a gift from his shop. I got a beautiful silver teapot and Ethan got a leather camel. We also bought a few very old antiques to take home. The shop was so packed with beautiful things, that taking photos in the dark room was difficult.
As promised, Hicham also took Jill to a spice shop, where she found that the spice she didn’t like was indeed fennel. She also found some essential oils at an amazing price.
After a very busy day exploring the Medina, Hicham took us to a pool club for dinner. The club was as over the top as you would expect from a pool club, loaded with a red carpet entrance and a no camera policy. I was a little worried they wouldn’t let E in, but we were there early in the day. The place was empty and the staff was excited to have a kid to play with. The waiters kept taking E off to dip his feet in the pool. We relaxed with pizza and hookah while Ethan danced on the empty dance floor.
For the next day, Hicham took us to a resort where we walked beautiful gardens, got fresh made bread, and relaxed in gorgeous courtyards.
Afterwards, Hicham invited us to his house for lunch. He had made us a slow cooked lamb in a clay pot. It was similar to someone in Texas making their guests brisket. We felt honored. His wife had prepared a full table of sides for us. They had a son that was Ethan’s age. It was a wonderful lunch and great insight to local life.
We have been fortunate enough to have local friends show us around countries many times now. I give credit to Jason for being so friendly with everyone he meets. He is always connecting with people that are ready to show us a piece of their world. I love it. Great sites, great food, and great friends. Morocco may have been a big culture shift from what we are used to. But seeing the differences only broadened our perspective of this massive world, leaving us thirsty to see and learn so much more.
Out of all the ways we have transported in our travels, renting a car and driving cross country is still my favorite. Jason would disagree mainly because he is always the one driving. To be fair, it is stressful figuring out how to drive in a country that allows donkeys on the freeway. Nevertheless, I can’t help but to love seeing the country side up close and getting the flexibility to stop wherever and whenever we want. That is exactly what brought us to Volubilis during our drive from Fes to Casablanca.
Volubilis was once the capital city of the kingdom of Mauretania in 25 BC. It was built by Cleopatra Selene II, THE Cleopatra’s very own daughter. Not a lot remains, but there is enough to be amazed. Large pillars, arches, and some very intact mosaics fill the site. The surrounding hills are dotted with olive trees, the same crop that made the city wealthy in the first place.
Walking the open grounds was a nice contrast to the previous day’s corn maze through the Fes Medina. Little E had the opportunity to run through the open space. Somehow, he still preferred for his mama to carry him though. Seeing that the site wasn’t exactly stroller friendly, that’s exactly what I did… lug a 35 lb two year old up and down over 2000 year old stairs.
Warm sunshine, beautiful scenery, and historic ruins… what more could we ask for? Well lunch would have been nice. But we soon learned that finding somewhere to eat as a family was going to be a challenge. Most restaurants didn’t look too inviting towards a mom and toddler. But alas, we saw those golden arches during our drive and have never been happier. That was the best McDonald’s sandwich I had ever eaten.
Moral of the story: driving cross country may give you experiences you otherwise would have never stumbled across. It is more work, especially for the person driving. But what you gain is flexibility to really explore and experience the country in a more personal way.
We weren’t quite sure what to expect from Morocco, but as soon as we arrived in Fes, we knew we were up for something special. Even the airport was covered in beautiful tiles, fountains, and lamps.
I had read enough to know that we might have a hard time finding our Riad, or what we would refer to as a bed and breakfast here in the States. So, we had a driver pick us up at the airport and escort us through the Medina to our room. And thank god we did. There was no way we were finding that place on our own. For one thing, you can’t just drive up to the front door and ask for valet. Instead, our driver got us as close as the narrow streets would allow. Then we followed the bell hop through the tiny alleys taking about a million turns and wondering if the stroller we bought would hold up in these conditions.
Once we found the Riad, we were relieved to find hot tea and cookies waiting for us. Our Riad owner took the time to tell us all about the city. We asked him if he could find us a guide. After the trek to the Riad we knew we couldn’t navigate the Medina alone. He set us up with a historian and promised we would be able to find some lunch along the tour.
Our historian tour guide soon met us at the Riad after we had time to freshen up. For our first stop, he took us into a carpet shop to see the beautiful rugs that the country had to offer. The shop owner fed us camel sandwiches while giving us a history lesson on rug making in Morocco. They pulled out rug after rug hoping one would catch our eye, and we would take it home. But our wallets weren’t that thick. After lunch we politely declined the purchase of a rug. I expected a more aggressive sell, but the shop owner was very courteous. I think they just enjoyed our company, especially Ethan’s. He covered Ethan’s head in kisses, a strange gesture to us Americans but very normal in Morocco, and let him run around the shop trampling all over the expensive rugs. Ethan even got a magic carpet ride!
After our lunch, the Historian dragged us from section to section of the large Medina, showing us how everything in Morocco was made. We saw the linens section, the wood section, the tiles section, the metal works section, and perhaps my favorite, the leather section.
Fes is home of the world’s oldest tannery, the Chouara Tannery. Seeing the leathers being dyed up on the roof was quite an experience. I’ll never forget the smell! Although the shop owners weren’t aggressive, there was an obvious unspoken expectation that you buy something after getting the shop tours. We left the tannery with a pair of beautiful ottomans.
Of course the Historian wouldn’t let us miss the oldest continuously operating college in the world, University of Al Quaraouiyine, even if we couldn’t go inside. We saw the beautiful entrances into the college throughout the Medina. And a quick drive outside of the Medina brought us to the King’s Palace where I was directed to only point my camera in one direction and stand exactly were we were told.
The Historian filled our heads with all kinds of knowledge that I quickly forgot that night. But I do remember that every shape and every color in the numerous tiles we saw had a specific meaning.
The beauty of the city was quite perplexing. The interior design was always over the top, filled to the brim with intricate details. But the exterior quickly reminded us that we were in a third world country with such labor intensive work and widespread poverty that we quickly felt humbled. Of course, anytime you visit something as old as 8th century, you’re bound to see some wear and tear. And you’re bound to be amazed. We left Fes in awe. In awe of the history, in awe of the beauty, and in awe of the intensity of the day to day life in the packed tiny alleys.
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