The Hills and Autens… together again! It had been two years since our last group adventure to South America, and we missed our travel friends deeply. A lot had changed in those last two years, but once we were together it felt like we didn’t miss a beat. This time we chose to explore more of Europe. I was itching to revisit my favorite city in the world with the kiddos.
We started this trip with a little gift for the parents, an immediate adult night out with the help of a local babysitter. This was a great way to beat the jet lag and a wonderful start to the break from our daily grind. Taksim Square was buzzing when we arrived. At night, it felt electric. We wandered down the main strip that runs along the iconic tram line. The street had everything. Luxury fashion, tiny boutiques, spice shops, Turkish delights, and more street food than any of us could resist. We found a little alley restaurant, grabbed an outdoor table, and listened to the city swirl around us as we caught up on old times. Then we grabbed fried sardines and warm roasted chestnuts from street vendors. We walked until our feet gave out and somehow ended up right back at our hotel without ever needing a ride. It was a perfect first night to kickstart the fun.
The next morning kicked off the first official day of our adventure. Since Jason and I had been to Istanbul before, we wanted a mix of kid-friendly stops and things we missed last time. We braved the local bus system to Topkapi Palace. It may sound silly, but I feel a sense of pride every time we successfully use a local transit. Getting into Topkapi Palace proved to be a bit harder to get into than I thought it would be. After following multiple directions from palace staff, we finally found a tour guide to get tickets. Once we made it through the massive gates, the chaos was worth it.
Topkapi was much bigger than I expected, layered with courtyards and rooms that seem to fold into each other. Built in the 15th century, it was the home of Ottoman sultans for almost four hundred years, and it feels like a world unto itself. Tilework covers nearly every surface. Colors everywhere. Calligraphy, domes, ornate doors, and relics that stopped me in my tracks. We took our time wandering through every corridor, finding myself wonderfully lost in the details.
After we finally surfaced from the palace, we walked through the gardens with the Blue Mosque on one side and Hagia Sophia on the other. Seeing them again lit me up. The kids were full of energy ready to explore. So from there we slipped underground into the Basilica Cistern. It was dark and echoey and a little eerie, the perfect environment for my boys who love all things spooky. They had the best time searching for Medusa’s head.
We grabbed lunch at a small restaurant with a great view. After we were full and relaxed, Jason and Adam disappeared for their Turkish bath appointment. Jill and I took the kids on our own adventure. It may have started with a taxi driver scamming us and charging double… but it ended with a unique experience that I’ll never forget. Jill had heard about a very special church, the Church of Saint Mary of the Mongols. It’s the only Byzantine church in Istanbul that has always remained Greek Orthodox, never converted to a mosque. It’s tucked behind a tall wall, not open to the public, and the only way in is to find a hidden door and ring a bell like you’re in some kind of secret society.
I thought she was a bit crazy when she told me about the secret door. But I followed along as we searched through a maze of narrow alleys. Suddenly she stopped, examined a very average looking door and pressed the doorbell. A woman actually answered. She looked at us, she looked up and down the alley and seeing that we were alone, she let us in with a quick You have 10 minutes. The church was small, warm, and full of energy. It felt like discovering a little pocket of history no one else knew about.
After that surprise win, we grabbed Turkish coffee brewed in hot sand and chocolate-covered strawberries from an adorable cafe tucked into the side of staircase. We wandered through a tiny local market full of handmade goods. It was a quaint neighborhood, and a new side of Istanbul I hadn’t met before.
Determined not to be scammed again, we once again braved public transit back across the strait to meet the boys near Galata Tower. We stopped for cheesecake, and the kids got that famous Turkish ice cream where the ice-cream vendor plays tricks. He has the kids laughing in stiches. When the boys finally arrived, pink and shiny from their hammam, we all climbed the Galata Tower just in time for sunset. The whole city glowed.
The next morning we flew to Cappadocia… I’ll save that story for another post. But we did return to Istanbul for one last night. This time we explored the port, and the kids loved watching the boats and spotting the tiny jellyfish drifting near the edge of the water. We tried more street food… corn, stuffed clams, and fresh seafood. E even ate a fish eyeball, which he’s still bragging about.
We met the babysitter one more time so the adults could squeeze in another night out. We found a restaurant that served tray after tray of incredible food in the cutest hidden food court off Taksim Square. We drank Turkish Raki and toasted to our friendship. Then walked through the lit-up streets, soaking in the energy of a city one more time. An energy that somehow felt both ancient and alive in the same breath.
Every city I visit I assign a word that represents that city’s essence. The first time Jason and I visited Turkey 10 years ago, I gave Istanbul the word charm. That night I confirmed the word still fits perfectly. I fell in love with Istanbul all over again. The City of Charm has fully secured its position as my favorite city in the world.
Until next time,
