Our time in Milos began on the water. We boarded a ferry and splurged on VIP seats, which thankfully helped me manage the inevitable seasickness. The open viewing deck helped as well, as did watching island after island pass by. With each one, our anticipation grew. Then Milos appeared. White buildings stacked along the shoreline, glowing against the deep blue sea. It was the kind of arrival that already felt like a reward.
Once docked, reality set in. We navigated the usual rental car chaos, brushed up on how to drive a stick shift, and nearly found ourselves stranded in a sheep field while trying to locate the house. Divorce was narrowly avoided. Somehow, we made it. The house was worth every wrong turn. Perched high above the sea, it was peaceful, stunning, and instantly grounding.
We were starving, so we headed out again in search of lunch. Our destination was a beachside restaurant known for cooking food in volcanic sand on the Paralia Paleochori beach. Our curious kids got to see there meal up close and personal. And after we stuffed ourselves we lounged on the beach just steps away. Jill and I quickly realized that Milos is a rock hound’s dream. We filled our pockets with stones in every color imaginable. The water was freezing, but that didn’t stop the kids, who swam until their lips turned blue and then buried themselves in the sand to keep warm.
That evening, we kept things simple. Gyros on the porch, sweeping sea views, and a sunset that brought everything to a quiet pause.
The next morning, we set out to explore the nearby village after the sunrise woke us early. Our first stop was the Catacombs of Milos, among the oldest Christian catacombs in the world. Once again, we found ourselves winding through narrow underground tunnels, pretending to be haunted by ghosts and spirits.
From there, we walked to the Ancient Theater of Milos. The kids immediately claimed the stage, dancing and performing with the sea stretching endlessly behind them. Nearby stood a replica of the statue of Aphrodite, marking the spot where the original once stood before making its way to the Louvre. Standing there offered a glimpse into what attending a performance during the Roman Empire might have felt like. The marble was striking, quietly foreshadowing our upcoming visit to Paros.
Lunch took us to Plaka, where we wandered the white-and-blue alleyways and followed our curiosity wherever it led. We found the softest towels that became favorites for everyone. We stopped to talk to a local photographer that gave us tips for seeing some of the best beaches. We awed at the beautiful stone work and stunning views.
Beach time was calling again, so we made our way to Klima, a quiet area known for its colorful boat houses lining the shore. The cute houses were a beautiful contrast against the blue sea, a photographers dream. The beach was small, but perfect for our kiddos, shielded by the wind making for a calm place to play and swim. By the end of the day, we were happily exhausted and content to return to the house, once again watching the sun sink into the sea.
The following day brought even more adventure. We started at Sarakiniko, famous for its moon-like landscape. The smooth white rock formations were unlike anything we had seen before. We lounged by the bay while cold water drifted in around us. The wind made cliff jumping impossible, but watching the waves crash against the rocks was entertainment enough. Nearby, the boys explored pirate caves and managed to fall into a pit, narrowly avoiding serious injury. Thankfully, everyone was fine, and the story quickly turned into one we’ll laugh about for years.
Lunch near the port brought a new kind of entertainment. The kids tossed bread crumbs to the fish below while we waited for our food. Our waiter brought us free shots of his favorite mystery liquor after we were stuffed with fresh made seafood pasta.
For our final beach, we chose something even more off the beaten path. A secluded cove accessible only by boat or a old decaying ladder called Tsigrado Beach. After some debate, we decided to try it. The ladder didn’t look so bad until we were actually on it. Slowly and carefully, we made our way down with the kids. It was absolutely worth it. Calm water, hidden caves, and the kind of experience that makes everyone feel braver afterward. E even found a small cliff to jump from, sealing the adventure.
That night, we decided to walk down to a seafood restaurant in the fishing village below our house. Walking down was easy. Halfway there, we realized our mistake. Getting back up was going to be a challenge, but we chose to worry about that later. The sunset over the village was beautiful, and the food at Medusa was some of the best we had on the entire trip. We were surprised to hear the American asset from our waiter. We soon found out he wasn’t just American, he was Texan. He was thrilled to meet fellow Texans and shared that his future father-in-law owned the restaurant. The owner joined us with special sweet treats and shots of homemade liquor that he was especially proud of. When the waiter heard about our uphill problem, he kindly offered to drive us back up the hill!
We were heading to our next island in the morning. And even though we were excited about what lay ahead, we felt a sense of sadness that night leaving Milos behind. Milos surprised us at every turn. Rugged, playful, and full of heart, it felt wild in the best way. An island that rewards curiosity, patience, and a little bit of courage.
Until next time,
