Paros, Greece: Where Marble Meets Light

Paros, Greece: Where Marble Meets Light

After Milos captured our hearts, we took the short ferry ride over to the neighbor island of Paros to see if we could recreate the magic. As soon as we made shore, we knew Paros would be special. Almost immediately, I caught sight of my first blue dome. Something I’d dreamed of seeing after years of photos, books, and quiet imaginings of Greece. It was a small powerful moment.







After chatting with a few locals near the port, we secured our rental cars and found our condo in Naousa. A quick lunch helped reset us, and then we spent the afternoon wandering through the ruins of the Venetian Castle. Tiny crabs scurried through the water below us, sailboats bobbed nearby, and octopus hung drying on lines.
























Beach time felt like the obvious next step. We chose Golden Beach, known for sun and sport, and it quickly proved worthy of its name. The light hit the sand just right, giving it a warm golden glow. We rented an umbrella, ordered drinks straight to our chairs, and settled in. Adam gave windsurfing a try and quickly learned it’s much harder than it looks. Jill and I did what we do best, combing the beach for rocks and collecting more treasures than our pockets could hold. The kids braved the cold water staying in until their little teeth were chattering. As the sun began to sink, we headed inland to find dinner. We stopped at a quiet spot in the countryside with incredible food and front row seats to the sunset.











The next morning brought something special. Every so often on our travels, I schedule a family photo shoot with a local photographer, and this year we worked with Petti through localgraphers.com. She captured our family beautifully as we wandered the white and blue pathways of Naousa. Those photos will forever hold this season of life for us.


























After the shoot, we made our way to a local winery to sample the wines that have made Paros well known. The kids joined in with glasses of local orange juice, happily clinking cups alongside us.















From there, we drove into the center of the island to explore the marble quarries. Much of the marble used in the statues and structures we’d seen throughout Greece came from places just like this. We met a local at one quarry and purchased small pieces of marble. I chose two dice, simple objects that now carry a story.








Next, we wandered through the town of Lefkes. Shops, food, winding alleyways, and the joy of letting ourselves get lost. Somewhere along the way, I dropped my camera, shattering the lens filter. Thankfully, the lens itself was unharmed, but it did require that I put up the camera for the rest of the trip.






























We ended the day at Kolympethres, a beach known for its unique rock formations. It was beautiful and surprisingly one of the warmest beaches we visited on the trip. Ethan found a rock to jump from, which immediately made it his favorite stop.



That night, we had dinner right on the water, savoring the final moments of our Greek island adventure.

Paros felt balanced and grounded, full of beauty without trying too hard. A place of light, stone, and simple joys, and the perfect way to close this chapter of the journey.

Until next time,

Milos, Greece: Where the Sea Meets Stone

Milos, Greece: Where the Sea Meets Stone

Our time in Milos began on the water. We boarded a ferry and splurged on VIP seats, which thankfully helped me manage the inevitable seasickness. The open viewing deck helped as well, as did watching island after island pass by. With each one, our anticipation grew. Then Milos appeared. White buildings stacked along the shoreline, glowing against the deep blue sea. It was the kind of arrival that already felt like a reward.






Once docked, reality set in. We navigated the usual rental car chaos, brushed up on how to drive a stick shift, and nearly found ourselves stranded in a sheep field while trying to locate the house. Divorce was narrowly avoided. Somehow, we made it. The house was worth every wrong turn. Perched high above the sea, it was peaceful, stunning, and instantly grounding.


We were starving, so we headed out again in search of lunch. Our destination was a beachside restaurant known for cooking food in volcanic sand on the Paralia Paleochori beach. Our curious kids got to see there meal up close and personal. And after we stuffed ourselves we lounged on the beach just steps away. Jill and I quickly realized that Milos is a rock hound’s dream. We filled our pockets with stones in every color imaginable. The water was freezing, but that didn’t stop the kids, who swam until their lips turned blue and then buried themselves in the sand to keep warm.















That evening, we kept things simple. Gyros on the porch, sweeping sea views, and a sunset that brought everything to a quiet pause.






The next morning, we set out to explore the nearby village after the sunrise woke us early. Our first stop was the Catacombs of Milos, among the oldest Christian catacombs in the world. Once again, we found ourselves winding through narrow underground tunnels, pretending to be haunted by ghosts and spirits.



















From there, we walked to the Ancient Theater of Milos. The kids immediately claimed the stage, dancing and performing with the sea stretching endlessly behind them. Nearby stood a replica of the statue of Aphrodite, marking the spot where the original once stood before making its way to the Louvre. Standing there offered a glimpse into what attending a performance during the Roman Empire might have felt like. The marble was striking, quietly foreshadowing our upcoming visit to Paros.











Lunch took us to Plaka, where we wandered the white-and-blue alleyways and followed our curiosity wherever it led. We found the softest towels that became favorites for everyone. We stopped to talk to a local photographer that gave us tips for seeing some of the best beaches. We awed at the beautiful stone work and stunning views.






















Beach time was calling again, so we made our way to Klima, a quiet area known for its colorful boat houses lining the shore. The cute houses were a beautiful contrast against the blue sea, a photographers dream. The beach was small, but perfect for our kiddos, shielded by the wind making for a calm place to play and swim. By the end of the day, we were happily exhausted and content to return to the house, once again watching the sun sink into the sea.














The following day brought even more adventure. We started at Sarakiniko, famous for its moon-like landscape. The smooth white rock formations were unlike anything we had seen before. We lounged by the bay while cold water drifted in around us. The wind made cliff jumping impossible, but watching the waves crash against the rocks was entertainment enough. Nearby, the boys explored pirate caves and managed to fall into a pit, narrowly avoiding serious injury. Thankfully, everyone was fine, and the story quickly turned into one we’ll laugh about for years.




















Lunch near the port brought a new kind of entertainment. The kids tossed bread crumbs to the fish below while we waited for our food. Our waiter brought us free shots of his favorite mystery liquor after we were stuffed with fresh made seafood pasta.








For our final beach, we chose something even more off the beaten path. A secluded cove accessible only by boat or a old decaying ladder called Tsigrado Beach. After some debate, we decided to try it. The ladder didn’t look so bad until we were actually on it. Slowly and carefully, we made our way down with the kids. It was absolutely worth it. Calm water, hidden caves, and the kind of experience that makes everyone feel braver afterward. E even found a small cliff to jump from, sealing the adventure.







That night, we decided to walk down to a seafood restaurant in the fishing village below our house. Walking down was easy. Halfway there, we realized our mistake. Getting back up was going to be a challenge, but we chose to worry about that later. The sunset over the village was beautiful, and the food at Medusa was some of the best we had on the entire trip. We were surprised to hear the American asset from our waiter. We soon found out he wasn’t just American, he was Texan. He was thrilled to meet fellow Texans and shared that his future father-in-law owned the restaurant. The owner joined us with special sweet treats and shots of homemade liquor that he was especially proud of. When the waiter heard about our uphill problem, he kindly offered to drive us back up the hill!










We were heading to our next island in the morning. And even though we were excited about what lay ahead, we felt a sense of sadness that night leaving Milos behind. Milos surprised us at every turn. Rugged, playful, and full of heart, it felt wild in the best way. An island that rewards curiosity, patience, and a little bit of courage.

Until next time,

Athens, Greece: Under the Watch of the Parthenon

Athens, Greece: Under the Watch of the Parthenon

Arriving in Athens, we were full of anticipation.

This was our second country on our European summer adventure with the Autens. And we were super excited about our shared Airbnb, a beautiful townhome tucked into the city, topped with a rooftop terrace and a front row view of the Acropolis. One of those places that makes you pause and think, yes, this is really happening.

While we waited for the house to be ready, we settled into a nearby café for lunch. That’s when the girls joined me to checked something big off my bucket list. We slipped away to have a pair of Greek leather sandals custom made at the famous Poet Sandal Maker, who has brought in A-list celebrities from around the world. The shop was wonderfully quirky, filled with art and odd little treasures created by the poet himself. Sitting there getting fitted, waiting while my sandals were made on the spot, I couldn’t help but feel a little Carrie Bradshaw energy. A simple luxury, deeply rooted in place, and absolutely worth it.






Sandals in hand, we met the boys at the Acropolis entrance. We couldn’t wait, this had to be at the top of our to-do list. We went straight in at dusk, hoping for the best light. After an ice cream stop at the entrance, we made our way up the steps, stopping first at the Theatre of Dionysus. Coincidentally, it’s dedicated to Jason’s favorite mythological Greek character, the Greek God of Wine. Of course.















Even in the off season, the Acropolis was packed. I can only imagine what peak summer looks like. Still, the weather was perfect. The marble underfoot was slick and worn, adding to the sense of history. Walking beneath the first entrance pillars, we all went quiet. And then there it was. The Parthenon. Standing in front of something so iconic, so layered with history, felt surreal.























We took our time circling the structure, soaking in every angle. We looked out over the massive city built around it, studied the details up close, and lingered where the light hit the goddess columns just right. It was impossible not to be moved. We could have stayed for hours, but the sun was setting and we were eager to enjoy our townhome.















That night we found a small local restaurant for dinner, the kind of place you stumble into and immediately know it’s special. Afterward, pastries and ice cream were nonnegotiable. We ended the evening on the rooftop with a bottle of wine, listening to a full orchestra perform at the Theatre of Dionysus while the Parthenon lit up behind us. One of those moments you wish you could bottle.



The next morning, after a quick dance party on the roof, we woke up early for the Acropolis Museum. None of us realized how massive it was. The kids were thrilled to find scavenger hunts throughout the exhibits, which kept them happily engaged. The museum was filled with remnants of the ancient city, mythological scenes we all remembered from school, and layers of history stacked on top of each other. Beneath it all sat Roman ruins, old roads and buildings from an empire that once thrived.




















Hunger eventually pulled us away, and we headed to Plaka for lunch. This is where Evey fell in love with gyros, a love affair that continues to this day. We wandered the winding streets, popped into shops, and slowly made our way toward the Ancient Agora. Finding the entrance turned into a journey of its own. After fully circling the entire site more, and walking far more than planned, we were loosing our sense of adventure. We stopped at a café to regroup. Some headed back to rest. The rest of us pushed on, not willing to miss it.















I’m so glad we did. The Ancient Agora brought the city to life in a different way. Not the world of gods and temples high on the hill, but the place where everyday life happened. Where business was done, ideas were exchanged, and community formed. We also spotted more turtles than expected, which turned into a fun scavenger hunt of its own.

























Walking through the entire site exhausted us, but still took our time to stop and take in all the sights on our trek back to the hotel. Athens doesn’t let you rush. Everywhere you turn there are ruins, shops, stories, and food calling your attention.













We were about to head into a week of island hopping, but Athens deserved more time than we gave it. It’s a city that asks you to slow down, look closer, and come back again.

Until next time,

Cappadocia, Turkey: More Than the Balloons

Cappadocia, Turkey: More Than the Balloons

We came to Cappadocia with one vision in mind…
Hundreds of hot air balloons floating quietly over the hoodoo valley during a beautiful sunrise. Spoiler alert… we didn’t experience the hot air balloons on this trip. But we left with so much more.

Cappadocia surprised us in the best way. It showed us a side of Turkish culture far from the energy of Istanbul. Slower. Grounded. And Deeply human. The landscape felt otherworldly, but the soul of the place came from the people, the history, and the craft passed down through generations.

We arrived with a packed itinerary and a personal guide ready to lead the way. Our first stop was the Göreme Open Air Museum. Walking through ancient rock-cut churches, we moved from cave to cave, room to room. Faded frescoes still clung to the walls, delicate and worn, telling stories centuries old. It was impossible not to imagine what life must have been like inside those small spaces… Quiet, communal, and intentional.






















The kids immediately found their own joy. A camel ride through the valley was must stop. Watching them bounce along, laughing, felt like the perfect contrast to the weight of history around us.




Then came the underground city. Descending into it felt surreal. Narrow tunnels, low ceilings, tight corners. We joked that we looked like naked mole rats shuffling through the dark. We all laughed as Jason his his best to fit in the tiny tunnels while the kids easily walked through no problem. The boys, of course, loved learning about the defense systems, stone doors and hidden traps. We saw small holes in the ceilings where intruders could be met with a brutal end. History suddenly felt very real.







We had a interesting stop at a local pottery workshop where we were given a personal tour of the entire process, from clay pulled straight from the nearby river to the final firing. The craftsmanship was incredible. The kids, and Adam, got their hands dirty, shaping mud into whatever their imaginations could manage. Then we walked through the shop where we saw the real craft on display. Hundreds of beautiful pots with intricate details caught my eye, but my focused remained on ensuring that the kids didn’t accident smash one casting us thousands of dollars.










That night, we stayed in a cave hotel built directly into the hoodoos. After a wonderfully quiet rooftop dinner were we relaxed in the calm energy, sleeping inside the hoodoo itself felt surreal and grounding at the same time.











Then came the 4 a.m. wake-up call, and the disappointment. We dragged our selves out of bed and into the van to take us to meet our balloon. After waiting in the van for a couple hours, we learned the balloon rides were canceled due to wind. We were crushed but only briefly. Because Cappadocia wasn’t done with us yet. We spent the day exploring Red Valley and Rose Valley, stopping at breathtaking viewpoints that somehow felt even more dramatic under shifting skies. We drank Turkish Coffee and stopped for an amazing lunch. We learned about Turkish soda discovering that each regions of Turkey was known for its own unique flavor offerings. It became a game to try all the different flavors we found along the way.













We visited a jewelry workshop and learned about Zultanite, a rare Turkish gemstone that changes color depending on the light. This stop turned into a very good time for the adults. Free whiskey, Turkish wine and new friends set us up for a good time and slightly looser wallets. I left with Zultanite pieces I’ll treasure forever and memories I didn’t expect to make.



Later, we hiked through Imagination Valley, turning it into a game of spotting animals and shapes in the hoodoos. The weather was perfect, the hike short but stunning. Jill and I loved spotting all the different plants and wildflowers growing throughout the hike.
























By the time we reached Monk Valley, we were pushing through light rain, and it was still absolutely worth it. The formations there are unlike anywhere else. And yes, they are unmistakably… phallic shaped. The adults couldn’t stop giggling. The kids, blissfully unaware of why, joined in, convinced we were just very amused by fairy chimneys. That moment captured Cappadocia perfectly. Awe, humor, curiosity, and joy all layered together.


















At dinner, we made friends with other travelers who loved our energy and insisted on photos with us. We found ourselves lost in the moment, enjoying the unique experience of being in a new place with new people. We may have come for the balloons, but what stayed with us was much deeper.

Our guide shared something that stuck with me. Cappadocia is struggling with a specific kind of over-tourism, Influencers chasing the perfect photo. This has led to a change in the area. Everywhere you go there are carefully placed props and photo perfect experiences like rides in vintage cars and staged horse encounters. This tourism industry has increasingly been built around image instead of experience. Some locals have embraced it using it to their advantage to provide that perfect photo op. Others are heartbroken by it. They see visitors arrive, snap photos, and leave without ever touching what truly makes this place sacred.

The people.
The craftsmanship.
The attention to detail and excellence.
The perseverance of life carved into stone.
The history layered beneath your feet.
The natural beauty.
The sacred ground.

We came for the balloons. And even though they never took off, we fell in love with Turkey even more deeply. Honestly, that feels like exactly what Cappadocia wanted to teach us.

Until next time,

Istanbul, Turkey: A return worth making

Istanbul, Turkey: A return worth making

The Hills and Autens… together again! It had been two years since our last group adventure to South America, and we missed our travel friends deeply. A lot had changed in those last two years, but once we were together it felt like we didn’t miss a beat. This time we chose to explore more of Europe. I was itching to revisit my favorite city in the world with the kiddos.

We started this trip with a little gift for the parents, an immediate adult night out with the help of a local babysitter. This was a great way to beat the jet lag and a wonderful start to the break from our daily grind. Taksim Square was buzzing when we arrived. At night, it felt electric. We wandered down the main strip that runs along the iconic tram line. The street had everything. Luxury fashion, tiny boutiques, spice shops, Turkish delights, and more street food than any of us could resist. We found a little alley restaurant, grabbed an outdoor table, and listened to the city swirl around us as we caught up on old times. Then we grabbed fried sardines and warm roasted chestnuts from street vendors. We walked until our feet gave out and somehow ended up right back at our hotel without ever needing a ride. It was a perfect first night to kickstart the fun.

The next morning kicked off the first official day of our adventure. Since Jason and I had been to Istanbul before, we wanted a mix of kid-friendly stops and things we missed last time. We braved the local bus system to Topkapi Palace. It may sound silly, but I feel a sense of pride every time we successfully use a local transit. Getting into Topkapi Palace proved to be a bit harder to get into than I thought it would be. After following multiple directions from palace staff, we finally found a tour guide to get tickets. Once we made it through the massive gates, the chaos was worth it.

Topkapi was much bigger than I expected, layered with courtyards and rooms that seem to fold into each other. Built in the 15th century, it was the home of Ottoman sultans for almost four hundred years, and it feels like a world unto itself. Tilework covers nearly every surface. Colors everywhere. Calligraphy, domes, ornate doors, and relics that stopped me in my tracks. We took our time wandering through every corridor, finding myself wonderfully lost in the details.

After we finally surfaced from the palace, we walked through the gardens with the Blue Mosque on one side and Hagia Sophia on the other. Seeing them again lit me up. The kids were full of energy ready to explore. So from there we slipped underground into the Basilica Cistern. It was dark and echoey and a little eerie, the perfect environment for my boys who love all things spooky. They had the best time searching for Medusa’s head.

We grabbed lunch at a small restaurant with a great view. After we were full and relaxed, Jason and Adam disappeared for their Turkish bath appointment. Jill and I took the kids on our own adventure. It may have started with a taxi driver scamming us and charging double… but it ended with a unique experience that I’ll never forget. Jill had heard about a very special church, the Church of Saint Mary of the Mongols. It’s the only Byzantine church in Istanbul that has always remained Greek Orthodox, never converted to a mosque. It’s tucked behind a tall wall, not open to the public, and the only way in is to find a hidden door and ring a bell like you’re in some kind of secret society.

I thought she was a bit crazy when she told me about the secret door. But I followed along as we searched through a maze of narrow alleys. Suddenly she stopped, examined a very average looking door and pressed the doorbell. A woman actually answered. She looked at us, she looked up and down the alley and seeing that we were alone, she let us in with a quick You have 10 minutes. The church was small, warm, and full of energy. It felt like discovering a little pocket of history no one else knew about.

After that surprise win, we grabbed Turkish coffee brewed in hot sand and chocolate-covered strawberries from an adorable cafe tucked into the side of staircase. We wandered through a tiny local market full of handmade goods. It was a quaint neighborhood, and a new side of Istanbul I hadn’t met before.

Determined not to be scammed again, we once again braved public transit back across the strait to meet the boys near Galata Tower. We stopped for cheesecake, and the kids got that famous Turkish ice cream where the ice-cream vendor plays tricks. He has the kids laughing in stiches. When the boys finally arrived, pink and shiny from their hammam, we all climbed the Galata Tower just in time for sunset. The whole city glowed.

The next morning we flew to Cappadocia… I’ll save that story for another post. But we did return to Istanbul for one last night. This time we explored the port, and the kids loved watching the boats and spotting the tiny jellyfish drifting near the edge of the water. We tried more street food… corn, stuffed clams, and fresh seafood. E even ate a fish eyeball, which he’s still bragging about.

We met the babysitter one more time so the adults could squeeze in another night out. We found a restaurant that served tray after tray of incredible food in the cutest hidden food court off Taksim Square. We drank Turkish Raki and toasted to our friendship. Then walked through the lit-up streets, soaking in the energy of a city one more time. An energy that somehow felt both ancient and alive in the same breath.

Every city I visit I assign a word that represents that city’s essence. The first time Jason and I visited Turkey 10 years ago, I gave Istanbul the word charm. That night I confirmed the word still fits perfectly. I fell in love with Istanbul all over again. The City of Charm has fully secured its position as my favorite city in the world.

Until next time,